Contributed Story: Hangin’ Tough in La Candelaria
SUMMARY: Christopher K from Colombia gives his advice on how NOT to get robbed or bothered in La Candelaria section of Bogota, Colombia.
I also stayed on the 3rd floor of Aragon and walked to the Platypus to use the internet. I made the Plat-to-Aragon walk at all hours: day, night, 3am, whenever, and always with my laptop. Of course, locals say this is crazy stupid, but there’s a knack to it.
The first skill you need is to read body language on the street, and I mean from two blocks away. I can tell an armed thief from a harmless bum in La Candelaria from at least one block away. What’s he doing, where’s he looking, how’s he carry himself? … Read more
Contributed Story: La Candelaria Pickpocket FAIL
SUMMARY: Quick dittie on an attempted robbery in La Candelaria.
This piece was contributed by Christopher K, who was the big Bogota blogger before getting locked up in a Brazilian penitentiary last year. Here’s his story:
Something’s not right in front of the tienda bar. It’s not too late at night and Sam’s just purchased an arepa con chorizo. We’re talking with two friends on the sidewalk when a mendigo asks for money – perfectly normal in La Candelaria, but there’s something off about this particular bum. His eyes are too focused, too searching. It’s so subtle I wonder if I’m the only one who notices. All four of us fuck him off and he wanders away. We’re involved in an animated discussion , but I make a note to keep an eye on this guy. He’s distinctively short.
A few minutes later a one-armed mendigo rudely breaks into our chat to beg. We fuck him off as well. A minute later I notice him standing with the short guy. They’re looking at us while talking – planning something maybe. … Read more
Limpiezas in Colombia: Social Cleansing
SUMMARY: I discuss social cleansing, which Wikipedia defines as “the elimination of ‘undesirable’ social elements, such as criminals, homosexuals, and the homeless.” I believe the 7 de agosto neighborhood recently underwent a limpieza.
I’d heard of police and military carrying out extrajudicial killings of thieves and indigentes. But only recently have I read in-depth about social cleansing. The issue came up after I noticed a significant difference in the streets around 7 de agosto, one of those inexpensive produce markets around Calle 66 and Carrera 23.
I first passed through the area on the bike tour I took. I made a mental note to not cross Avenida Caracas in Chapinero if I didn’t have to. Then The Mick started taking me to the market for cheap food. I always hated going because the place is crawling with indigentes, bazuceros, stumble-bums, and drunks. After countless times going, I never stopped getting uncomfortable. I thought pictures or video of the area would be great for this blog, but I could never imagine stopping to take out a camera around all those dirty junkies. I even joined the conversation about 7 de agosto on Poorbuthappy, recommending tourists steer clear of the area. … Read more
Bogota Zombie Bums
Alternate Title: Readers Attack – ‘Get the fuck out’!
SUMMARY: In a response to my second hate comment, I discuss the nature of bazuceros, the degree of drug abuse among the Bogota panhandlers, and my new resolution about some unlucky panhandler that insults me.
My second hate comment, from “Julian”:
Please get the fuck out. dude, seriously, you’re the only piece of walking trash in that beautiful city,
My first reaction to this comment was: Wow, he doesn’t know this city at all!
Or maybe he has a warped definition of “trash”. He may honestly believe that Bogota’s biggest problem is the gringos on work visas teaching English and going to AA meetings. What this city really needs is more drunks and addicts panhandling in the street. That’s where it really gets its charm!
Dumb-ass.
Aprovechadores vs. Those in Need
Alternate Title: Readers Attack – ‘Dumb american’ doesn’t care about ‘those in need’!
SUMMARY: I respond to my first hate comment in a rambling post about Latinos who take advantage of gringos, “those in need” in Colombia, and info and links about Colombia’s victims of internal displacement.
I don’t know what took so long, but below is my first hate comment.
Mike de Arequipa:
You really seem to care about those in need. I like how you handled the situation in the run down hostal in Cusco. It seemed to me that they were in need of a little cash but you were unwilling to forfeit a 150$ train ticket Aguas Calientes. You managed to frighten them, do more damage then the damage you had already done, and then flee the scene to blog about it in a jokingly manner. Bien Hecho! Do you have a name for this type of helping the poor. You are making a mess from city to city in your redneck fashion. Thanks for helping the generalizations about dumb Americans, you represent well! Can’t wait to hear more about your generosity.
Why I Hate Downtown Bogota
SUMMARY: One day’s events that highlight why I hate / despise / loathe being in downtown Bogota and La Candelaria.
Political Correctness Disclaimer: I would like to use the term ‘panhandler’, but it doesn’t read well. I am sensitive to those truly in need, which there are many of in Bogota due to displacements from the war. But I’m going to use the word ‘bum’ because it reads better, it saves space, and it doesn’t describe genuinely needy people so much as it describes professional panhandlers, stick-up kids, drug addicts, and hybrids of those three.
Rosa visited me in Bogota for the weekend (Rosa was my first girlfriend in Peru). As will be the case for any tourist that visits me here, I had to show her Monserrate, La Candelaria, Plaza Bolivar, museums – points of interest unfortunately located downtown.
We took the TransMilenio from Chapinero… Read more
Crime and the Bogota Mentality
DISCLAIMER: This post shouldn’t dissuade tourists from visiting Bogota. It’s a great town, but crime is a problem. I got mugged my first week. Sections include The Suit in La Candelaria, The Bogota Atmosphere, and The Bogota Mentality.
Introductory Anecdote: The Suit in La Candelaria
One night before moving out of La Candelaria, I was watching the corner from my 3rd floor hotel room around 8:30 pm. At this particular corner, there’s always a vagrant or two going through bags of trash, asking passersby for money, or something like that.
Down a hill to the west, I saw a young Colombian gentleman in a suit carrying a briefcase walking toward this corner. Heading down the same hill away from the corner was a dirtball. Dirtball may not have been a panhandler or a stick-up kid, but he obviously didn’t work for a living. Dirtball didn’t ask The Suit for change. As soon as they passed each other, The Suit jerked his head around to keep an eye on Dirtball. … Read more
