Life is But a Dream in La Candelaria
SUMMARY: Crime and indigente nuisances are way down in La Candelaria. I explain why.
I’ve written extensively on the crime situation in La Candelaria in these posts: Contributed Story: Hangin’ Tough in La Candelaria, Contributed Story: La Candelaria Pickpocket FAIL, La Candelaria in Pictures, Why I Hate Downtown Bogota, Crime and the Bogota Mentality, and My 1st Mugging in Colombia, I’ve written how bad crime was. WAS. As in past tense, not anymore. I have to go back to all those posts and link to this one, because La Candelaria is different.
After moving out of Chapinero, I moved into Hostal Fatima in La Candelaria. I noticed I was rarely getting asked for change or offered drugs. One of the gringos I knew at another hostel confirmed the neighborhood’s changed since last year. … Read more
Contributed Story: Hangin’ Tough in La Candelaria
SUMMARY: Christopher K from Colombia gives his advice on how NOT to get robbed or bothered in La Candelaria section of Bogota, Colombia.
I also stayed on the 3rd floor of Aragon and walked to the Platypus to use the internet. I made the Plat-to-Aragon walk at all hours: day, night, 3am, whenever, and always with my laptop. Of course, locals say this is crazy stupid, but there’s a knack to it.
The first skill you need is to read body language on the street, and I mean from two blocks away. I can tell an armed thief from a harmless bum in La Candelaria from at least one block away. What’s he doing, where’s he looking, how’s he carry himself? … Read more
Contributed Story: La Candelaria Pickpocket FAIL
SUMMARY: Quick dittie on an attempted robbery in La Candelaria.
This piece was contributed by Christopher K, who was the big Bogota blogger before getting locked up in a Brazilian penitentiary last year. Here’s his story:
Something’s not right in front of the tienda bar. It’s not too late at night and Sam’s just purchased an arepa con chorizo. We’re talking with two friends on the sidewalk when a mendigo asks for money – perfectly normal in La Candelaria, but there’s something off about this particular bum. His eyes are too focused, too searching. It’s so subtle I wonder if I’m the only one who notices. All four of us fuck him off and he wanders away. We’re involved in an animated discussion , but I make a note to keep an eye on this guy. He’s distinctively short.
A few minutes later a one-armed mendigo rudely breaks into our chat to beg. We fuck him off as well. A minute later I notice him standing with the short guy. They’re looking at us while talking – planning something maybe. … Read more
La Candelaria in Pictures
SUMMARY: Brief profile and pictures of the famed neighborhood, La Candelaria. Crazy murals included.
Why I Hate Downtown Bogota
SUMMARY: One day’s events that highlight why I hate / despise / loathe being in downtown Bogota and La Candelaria.
Political Correctness Disclaimer: I would like to use the term ‘panhandler’, but it doesn’t read well. I am sensitive to those truly in need, which there are many of in Bogota due to displacements from the war. But I’m going to use the word ‘bum’ because it reads better, it saves space, and it doesn’t describe genuinely needy people so much as it describes professional panhandlers, stick-up kids, drug addicts, and hybrids of those three.
Rosa visited me in Bogota for the weekend (Rosa was my first girlfriend in Peru). As will be the case for any tourist that visits me here, I had to show her Monserrate, La Candelaria, Plaza Bolivar, museums – points of interest unfortunately located downtown.
We took the TransMilenio from Chapinero… Read more
Crime and the Bogota Mentality
DISCLAIMER: This post shouldn’t dissuade tourists from visiting Bogota. It’s a great town, but crime is a problem. I got mugged my first week. Sections include The Suit in La Candelaria, The Bogota Atmosphere, and The Bogota Mentality.
Introductory Anecdote: The Suit in La Candelaria
One night before moving out of La Candelaria, I was watching the corner from my 3rd floor hotel room around 8:30 pm. At this particular corner, there’s always a vagrant or two going through bags of trash, asking passersby for money, or something like that.
Down a hill to the west, I saw a young Colombian gentleman in a suit carrying a briefcase walking toward this corner. Heading down the same hill away from the corner was a dirtball. Dirtball may not have been a panhandler or a stick-up kid, but he obviously didn’t work for a living. Dirtball didn’t ask The Suit for change. As soon as they passed each other, The Suit jerked his head around to keep an eye on Dirtball. … Read more
My First Mugging in Colombia
SUMMARY: I tell a few stories about crime and danger in La Candelaria, including my first mugging in Colombia. I have decided to find an apartment in a different, safer neighborhood. Because I am a big pussy. Sections include Perpetual Begging, The Brick Incident, My Easter Sunday Mugging, and Leaving La Candelaria.
After staying in La Candelaria when I was in Bogotá last year, I was convinced that I’d live in the neighborhood if I ever moved to Bogotá. After a week in the neighborhood this time, I’m convinced I won’t stay. The bums, drug dealers, shadetree operators, thieves, scoundrels, and sketchballs are too much for me to take. I’m leaving.
Perpetual Begging
Not only am I harrassed for spare change by panhandlers, I’m also offered drugs daily. It’s always a persistent sell. They try to shake my hand or call me “my friend” and ask where I’m from. They run the line about the bus or food or whatever. One time a bum stood in the middle of the street and acted like he hailed me a taxi that was going to stop anyway. Then he asked for a tip. … Read more
