Life is But a Dream in La Candelaria

SUMMARY: Crime and indigente nuisances are way down in La Candelaria. I explain why.

I’ve written extensively on the crime situation in La Candelaria in these posts: Contributed Story: Hangin’ Tough in La Candelaria, Contributed Story: La Candelaria Pickpocket FAIL, La Candelaria in Pictures, Why I Hate Downtown Bogota, Crime and the Bogota Mentality, and My 1st Mugging in Colombia, I’ve written how bad crime was. WAS. As in past tense, not anymore. I have to go back to all those posts and link to this one, because La Candelaria is different.

After moving out of Chapinero, I moved into Hostal Fatima in La Candelaria. I noticed I was rarely getting asked for change or offered drugs. One of the gringos I knew at another hostel confirmed the neighborhood’s changed since last year. … Read more

Riot at Colombia’s National University

SUMMARY: Pictures and video of a riot at Colombia’s national university.

Alternate Title: My 2nd Time Tear-Gassed in Colombia

While Universidad de los Andes is the most prestigious in Colombia, the national university is actually ranked higher. One of the national university’s claims to fame comes from its former rector and recent presidential candidate, Antanas Mockus. He once mooned a disorderly crowd of students. … Read more

My 1st Time Tear-Gassed in Bogota

SUMMARY: Short dittie about my first whiff of tear gas during a small riot in Chicó.

I got a small dose of tear gas for the first time in my life today. Late for a class, I was speeding north on the Carrera 11 bike path. When I pulled up to Calle 72, I saw there was a small but common riot outside Universidad Pedagógica Nacional. Pedestrians blocked the sidewalk near the intersection so I had to slow my bike to a stop. There was no car traffic as the coppers had blocked off 11 and 72.

Being in a hurry, I quickly sized up the situation. Facing north up 11 from the south side of 72, I saw the rolito rioters standing on the median on the other side of 11. They were throwing rocks at the riot police who were holding their position north of 72 next to the Porciúncula church. This picture was my exact view of the northwest corner.

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Contributed Story: Hangin’ Tough in La Candelaria

SUMMARY: Christopher K from Colombia gives his advice on how NOT to get robbed or bothered in La Candelaria section of Bogota, Colombia.

I also stayed on the 3rd floor of Aragon and walked to the Platypus to use the internet. I made the Plat-to-Aragon walk at all hours: day, night, 3am, whenever, and always with my laptop. Of course, locals say this is crazy stupid, but there’s a knack to it.

The first skill you need is to read body language on the street, and I mean from two blocks away. I can tell an armed thief from a harmless bum in La Candelaria from at least one block away. What’s he doing, where’s he looking, how’s he carry himself? … Read more

Contributed Story: La Candelaria Pickpocket FAIL

SUMMARY: Quick dittie on an attempted robbery in La Candelaria.

This piece was contributed by Christopher K, who was the big Bogota blogger before getting locked up in a Brazilian penitentiary last year. Here’s his story:

Something’s not right in front of the tienda bar. It’s not too late at night and Sam’s just purchased an arepa con chorizo. We’re talking with two friends on the sidewalk when a mendigo asks for money – perfectly normal in La Candelaria, but there’s something off about this particular bum. His eyes are too focused, too searching. It’s so subtle I wonder if I’m the only one who notices. All four of us fuck him off and he wanders away. We’re involved in an animated discussion , but I make a note to keep an eye on this guy. He’s distinctively short.

A few minutes later a one-armed mendigo rudely breaks into our chat to beg. We fuck him off as well. A minute later I notice him standing with the short guy. They’re looking at us while talking – planning something maybe. … Read more

Limpiezas in Colombia: Social Cleansing

SUMMARY: I discuss social cleansing, which Wikipedia defines as “the elimination of ‘undesirable’ social elements, such as criminals, homosexuals, and the homeless.” I believe the 7 de agosto neighborhood recently underwent a limpieza.

I’d heard of police and military carrying out extrajudicial killings of thieves and indigentes. But only recently have I read in-depth about social cleansing. The issue came up after I noticed a significant difference in the streets around 7 de agosto, one of those inexpensive produce markets around Calle 66 and Carrera 23.

I first passed through the area on the bike tour I took. I made a mental note to not cross Avenida Caracas in Chapinero if I didn’t have to. Then The Mick started taking me to the market for cheap food. I always hated going because the place is crawling with indigentes, bazuceros, stumble-bums, and drunks. After countless times going, I never stopped getting uncomfortable. I thought pictures or video of the area would be great for this blog, but I could never imagine stopping to take out a camera around all those dirty junkies. I even joined the conversation about 7 de agosto on Poorbuthappy, recommending tourists steer clear of the area. … Read more

Sin Nombre: Relevant, Intense, Heart-Wrenching

SUMMARY: I review Sin Nombre, the best film I’ve seen in a long time about a Mexican gang member trying to escape his past and help an innocent Honduran girl safely enter the United States. Themes discussed include MS-13, immigration and human rights, love, and more.

I wasn’t going to include this post on this blog (only my other blog), but WordPress.com apparently doesn’t allow embedding YouTube videos so I’m posting it here as well because I spent a lot of time finding those fucking videos!

Sin Nombre is the best film I’ve seen in a long time. It’s also the first Spanish-language movie I watched without subtitles. They weren’t available at the pirated DVD market where I bought the disc. Fortunately I had no trouble understanding. … Read more

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