Limpiezas in Colombia: Social Cleansing
SUMMARY: I discuss social cleansing, which Wikipedia defines as “the elimination of ‘undesirable’ social elements, such as criminals, homosexuals, and the homeless.” I believe the 7 de agosto neighborhood recently underwent a limpieza.
I’d heard of police and military carrying out extrajudicial killings of thieves and indigentes. But only recently have I read in-depth about social cleansing. The issue came up after I noticed a significant difference in the streets around 7 de agosto, one of those inexpensive produce markets around Calle 66 and Carrera 23.
I first passed through the area on the bike tour I took. I made a mental note to not cross Avenida Caracas in Chapinero if I didn’t have to. Then The Mick started taking me to the market for cheap food. I always hated going because the place is crawling with indigentes, bazuceros, stumble-bums, and drunks. After countless times going, I never stopped getting uncomfortable. I thought pictures or video of the area would be great for this blog, but I could never imagine stopping to take out a camera around all those dirty junkies. I even joined the conversation about 7 de agosto on Poorbuthappy, recommending tourists steer clear of the area. … Read more
Chapinero Alto in Pictures
SUMMARY: Profile and pictures of Chapinero Alto, the urban-affluent neighborhood of Bogota.
Chapinero in Pictures
SUMMARY: Profile and pictures of the coolest neighborhood in Bogota, Chapinero.
Vallenato in Colombia
Alternate Title: My 1st Party in Colombia & I’m Going Back to AA
SUMMARY: I describe a party where I see my first vallenato band. And after the party I decide to go back to AA. Vallenato video at the end.
I sometimes frequent a cafe in my neighborhood because it’s a local student hangout for the university across the street and they sell beers for 1500 pesos ($0.70).
Now, I had been thinking that I’ve been drinking too much lately and I cooled out for a while. However, one of the managers of this fine establishment started hounding me to come to their big party on Friday. What was the occasion? Friday was the last day of the students’ semester.
So I went without a drink from Sunday until Friday and I was feeling great. I realized I had to make an appearance at the cafe since the manager’s brother Guillermo is probably going to be a client of mine. I planned to make an appearance, have a beer or two, and disappear while no one was looking… Read more
My First Paisa in Colombia
SUMMARY: I get drunk and go to Plaza Lourdes to get high. I meet my first paisa, a pseudo-ethnic subculture in Colombia.
Alternate Title: My First Run-In with Cocaine in Colombia
I met my first paisa last week. I’d heard about the paisas before. The guy who worked the graveyard shift at my Candelaria hotel was from Medellin, as are the paisas. He told me they’re the crazy culture in Colombia. The street-smart, hot-headed people. Somewhat involved in crime. Quick to pull guns. In other words, they’re the niggaz of Colombia. The black Colombians don’t have that reputation here; the paisas do.
The most famous paisas include Pablo Escobar (of Medellin Cartel fame) and, ironically, the current president Alvaro Uribe, who was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom by George W. Bush last year. Others include Juanes and painter Fernando Botero. The paisas aren’t necessarily of a different ethnic lineage. The Medellin region is their distinction. They’re associated with the coffee industry, and cocaine too. In fact, the textbook stereotype of a paisa is Juan Valdez, the face figure of the Juan Valdez coffee brand. Juan Valdez is the Starbucks of Colombia, a chain of coffee shops modeled after Starbucks.
So I was drinking rum in Plaza Lourdes on a Thursday night. … Read more
Crime and the Bogota Mentality
DISCLAIMER: This post shouldn’t dissuade tourists from visiting Bogota. It’s a great town, but crime is a problem. I got mugged my first week. Sections include The Suit in La Candelaria, The Bogota Atmosphere, and The Bogota Mentality.
Introductory Anecdote: The Suit in La Candelaria
One night before moving out of La Candelaria, I was watching the corner from my 3rd floor hotel room around 8:30 pm. At this particular corner, there’s always a vagrant or two going through bags of trash, asking passersby for money, or something like that.
Down a hill to the west, I saw a young Colombian gentleman in a suit carrying a briefcase walking toward this corner. Heading down the same hill away from the corner was a dirtball. Dirtball may not have been a panhandler or a stick-up kid, but he obviously didn’t work for a living. Dirtball didn’t ask The Suit for change. As soon as they passed each other, The Suit jerked his head around to keep an eye on Dirtball. … Read more
