3 Colombian Pueblos in 3 Weeks
SUMMARY: I’ve spontaneously, almost accidentally, visited three unique pueblos outside Bogota in three weeks. Sections include La Calera with Alcoholics and Addicts, Guatavita with Gringos, and Fell Off the Wagon in Girardot.
La Calera with Alcoholics and Addicts
I met Alejandro and Winston in AA. They’re both alcoholics and drug addicts – clean and sober for 9 years.
We hung out Friday night and they mentioned the possibility of going to La Calera. Alejandro and Winston grew up in Bogota – and got in all their trouble in Bogota – so their favorite recreational activity is leaving the city to visit small pueblos.
La Calera is a nice little town on the other side of the mountains. Most people go by bus but Alejandro and Winston walk. Friday night, we made tentative plans for them to call me Saturday. We couldn’t decide Friday night because they wanted to borrow some dogs. Dogs? – I asked. They wanted to borrow a pitbull or rottweiler for the day in case we ran into any thieves on the trail. Oh, OK. Alejandro called me around midnight Saturday and told me to be at his place at 6am. Sounds good – I said – did he round up a dog? No, but he has a machete we can bring. Oh, OK. … Read more
Formalities & Politeness in Bogota
SUMMARY: I describe the formal culture of Bogota, Colombia, as seen in its language, how the language is used between men, and the business dress code.
Colombians say Colombian Spanish is the best in the world. They say the Spanish spoken in Colombia is more proper than that spoken in Spain. Colombians take language seriously and make an effort to use it correctly. I once mentioned a mistake in common Peruvian Spanish to some Colombians, a mistake I didn’t realize was a mistake until I moved to Colombia. When asked why Peruvians might use it that way, one of them said “Son brutos.” They’re ignorant. … Read more
García Márquez and Love in Latin America
SUMMARY: I discuss Colombian author Gabriel García Márquez’ classic novel, Love in the Time of Cholera, and relate it to what I perceive to be the much more romantic culture of Latin America. I use examples from the book and my experiences and finally ask the question if this passion for romance is a good thing.
Latin culture is the most romantic in the world. Is this good or bad?
Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel García Márquez is set in an unnamed town assumed to be Cartagena, Colombia and spans from the late 19th century – early 20th century. As a teenager, Florentino Ariza falls in love with Fermina Daza the first time he lays eyes on her. He embarks on a letter-writing campaign, professing his love to her. She falls in love with him and they begin to write each other regularly. They plan a marriage and life together, without ever having spoken and behind the back of Fermina’s overbearing, ambiguously-criminal father… Read more
Why I Hate Downtown Bogota
SUMMARY: One day’s events that highlight why I hate / despise / loathe being in downtown Bogota and La Candelaria.
Political Correctness Disclaimer: I would like to use the term ‘panhandler’, but it doesn’t read well. I am sensitive to those truly in need, which there are many of in Bogota due to displacements from the war. But I’m going to use the word ‘bum’ because it reads better, it saves space, and it doesn’t describe genuinely needy people so much as it describes professional panhandlers, stick-up kids, drug addicts, and hybrids of those three.
Rosa visited me in Bogota for the weekend (Rosa was my first girlfriend in Peru). As will be the case for any tourist that visits me here, I had to show her Monserrate, La Candelaria, Plaza Bolivar, museums – points of interest unfortunately located downtown.
We took the TransMilenio from Chapinero… Read more
Buenos Aires, Argentina = Italy Meets South America
SUMMARY: I spend a 4-day weekend in Buenos Aires. Sections include BA European City, Argentine Women, BA’s Nocturnal Culture, Food: BA for Carnivores, Language: Argentine Spanish, Tango!, and Conclusion: Buenos Aires Doesn’t Suck.
The Colombian government won’t issue work visas inside Colombia. I had to pick the actual visa up at a Colombian consulate in a different country. So I scoured the internet for flights to anywhere. Surprisingly, Buenos Aires was the cheapest ticket. So I spent a 4-day weekend in BA to pick up my Colombian work visa.
European City
While I certainly planned to see BA someday, I was never eager to see it. I had heard that they consider themselves more European, they’re snobs, etc. I’ll say that the Argentine people were much more friendly than I thought.
The city has a noticeable European feel. There are people walking around with blond hair and blue eyes… Read more
Buenos Aires in Pictures
Pictures of Buenos Aires.












