You HAVE TO See Machu Picchu!
So the ladies from the tourist agency were able to save my Machu Picchu trip after The Cusco Incident. Thank God because Machu Picchu was the most spectacular scenery I’ve seen in my life. The view above Rio de Janeiro from Christ the Redeemer previously held the title, but was dethroned by Machu Picchu. Jump to pics.
Machu Picchu is quite removed from Cusco. The Incas never told the Spanish about it so it was virtually unknown for 500 years until Hiram Bingham, a Yale historian, re-discovered it to the outside world in 1901. Evidence shows that a German businessman found it in 1867 but kept it a secret in order to loot the artifacts. Now Machu Picchu sees over 2000 tourists / day!
Most of these tourists take a 4-hour train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the tiny town at the base of the mountain where Machu Picchu sits. From Aguas Calientes, they take a bus to the top of the mountain. The more dedicated tourists can take the Inca Trail, a four-day hike from Cusco which I imagine was how the Incas had to get to Machu Picchu pre-Colombus. There is also a two-day option for those who won’t spend four days hiking and camping. I have heard these routes are amazing and, if some gringo ever insists I take them to Machu Picchu, we’re taking the trail.
My idea of hiking was to skip the bus from Aguas Calientes. I do not recommend this terrible idea if you’re going to arrive from Cusco via train on the same day. They say it’s a one-hour hike, but I swear it was at least 90 minutes, probably 2 hours.
The train from Cusco drops off around 11am. I killed an hour in Aguas Calientes eating lunch. Two hours hiking. By the time I arrived at Machu Picchu, I only had 2 hours or so to hang out. I could spend a whole day there. It’s that cool. However you go to Machu Picchu, I recommend arriving to the ruins first thing in the morning (before the mass influx of gringos) and hang out all day. It’s that cool.
DISCLOSURE: I bought a small quantity of marijuana in Cusco with the intention of burning one before entering the ruins (which I did). This may have enhanced the experience for me, as I intended it to. If you’re going to hike up the mountain to Machu Picchu, don’t puff until you’re at the top. I’m glad I waited because the hike was a pain in the ass.
As soon as you arrive to Aguas Calientes, you can’t help noticing the natural beauty of the area. The Andes Mountains meet the Amazon rain forest to create a mountainous but plush, green view in every direction. Waterfalls are everywhere. The local culture is very indigenous. Aguas Calientes is a pure tourist economy, offering anything from chullos and sweaters to hotels and restaurants to any knick-knack you could possibly sell to the 2000+ daily visitors to Machu Picchu.
There’s not much to say about the hike up the mountain, besides recommending that you not do it. I’d also recommend not having three beers at lunch if you ignore my advice. In all fairness, the hike may have further enhanced my Machu Picchu experience by making me feel as if I earned it (although not like someone who did the Inca Trail). Outside Machu Picchu are two restaurants, gift shops, and even a hotel – ample accomodations if you want to spend the whole day there.
I rarely spend much time thinking about the Incas and Inca culture, but you can’t help it once you arrive at Machu Picchu. What were those people thinking when they built this? As primitive of a people as they were in most ways, how were they able to build something more beautiful than any other civilization in history? They built it as a resort. They didn’t go to Machu Picchu for only a day. It was a getaway.
If you follow a trail around the back of Machu Picchu, there lies the Inca Bridge, where you’re not allowed to go. The path takes ten minutes to follow, so there’s ample opportunity to burn one or pee. I did both.
I had strangers take pictures of me. I met the nicest French couple who loved my Clinton ‘92 t-shirt. And when I asked an American girl to take a picture of me, her father came out of nowhere and said, “Hey, you’re that crazy guy from the bar last night.”
Me: “What are you talking about?”
Him: “You don’t remember me?”
Me: “No.”
Him: “Ha ha. You were having a good time.”
Me: “Are you serious? I met you?”
(Long story, see The Cusco Incident)
Pictures
-
- Mural in Aguas Calientes
-
- Aguas Calientes Plaza de Armas
-
- Bridge over Urabamba River
-
- Aguas Calientes mural
-
- I got stuck behind these gringos with walking sticks
-
- This on Machu Picchu!
-
- Trail to Inca Bridge
-
- The textbook shot of Machu Picchu
-
- Ruler of all I survey
-
- This guy’s job is to clean weeds from the rocks
-
- This was a stage or gathering area
-
- Lots of llamas on Machu Picchu for effect
-
- This is Machu Picchu during the rainy season (courtesy of Nicolas)
It’s very important to go to Machu Picchu at the right time of year. If you go during the rainy season like Nicolas did, you may also say something stupid like “You don’t have to see Machu Picchu” (the last pic is his – sucka!).
comments
One Response to “You HAVE TO See Machu Picchu!”
Leave a Reply
For some reason tour agencies in Cusco have a hard time understanding people are here on vacation, and getting up at 5:00am to catch the train is not all that high on most people’s vacation wishlist.
The better way to get to Machupicchu is to see the Sacred Valley one day (Pisaq, Calca, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo, etc) and stay overnight in Ollantaytambo. From there you can catch the train at a more reasonable hour (8-ish).